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11-Sep-2019 09:50

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Anna responded to my query, offering the vacant apartment next door.The 'apartment' was one of two shacks atop a 9-storey genteel 1930s apartment building on the east shore of the island of Manial, with a channel of the Nile and the Corniche directly underneath, in the heart of Cairo.This was not for rich secular westerners, who studied at the AUC or one of many private institutes down town, at three times the cost.I heard of a Canadian-Egyptian artist who lived in Manial, the southern-most large island of Cairo, perched just upstream from more upscale Zamalek.On the south end of Manial there is the Nilometer, original dating from 861 AD, but the modern structure is just an anachronism, after the completion of the Aswan Dam in 1970, as the water level of the Nile is now regulated.The dams on the Nile, the first built by the British in 1902 and the monumental Aswan Dam in 1970, built by the Soviet Union, dominate Egypt-Cairo's life, having tamed the Nile, with all the advantages and problems that dams entail.It sounds great in retrospect, but over time, proved less and less a place to actually live.

Most could read Arabic script fluently, as they were mostly Muslim by birth and had attended Muslim classes to learn to read the script, but without any understanding. I wanted not only to understand what I read, but to gain enough fluency to function socially.Despite its unremittingly devastating dissection of Cairo, its colourful characters make it a compelling, heart-warming read.



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